“Japanese Wagyu Beef Raw, this looks completely different from the other steaks: pale, and heavily marbled. It is very soft, almost oily in texture. Cooked, it is reminiscent of a mild, fine-quality calf liver. The very liquid fat means it dissolves in the mouth.

King of cattle: wagyu is so tender it dissolves in the mouth ‘like lightly cooked fish’

Wagyu is back in town. After years of import bans, last summer saw the first deliveries of this Japanese super-beef, the champagne, the caviar, the Château Petrus of meat. It’s all about fat. Wagyu meat comes from a group of Japanese breeds revered for an incredibly high level of fat marbling. Where the best Western beef has white streaks running through it, Japanese wagyu is more fat than flesh, a slab of white with a splattering of pink. In fact, never mind marble, if we were talking worktops, I’d say a stippled granite. And it’s not just any fat – this is a soft fat with a low melting point, due in part to its high proportion of monounsaturated fats, to go along with high levels of omega 3 and 6. Which, yes, means that it is probably healthier fat than the regular saturated kind, although in these fat-friendly days there are those who claim that saturated fat should never have been demonised anyway. The point is that fat is where the flavour of meat resides, and this particular dissolving fat makes for the juiciest, richest steak in the world.”

 

Try our Wagyu Flank or Wagyu Sirloin, simply cooked on the Robata grill, brushed with a little miso and sesame powder, served for you to finish cooking on hot charcoal.

 

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